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How-To Guide
Our water-based penetrating sealer chemically bonds with concrete, pavers, brick, cast stone, and porous natural stone. It deepens natural color, dries to a matt non-film finish, and repels water, oil, and de-icing chemicals. Here is how we apply it.
What You'll Need
Low VOC and water-based, but still gear up. Wear safety glasses, protective gloves, and protective clothing. Keep kids and pets off the surface for 24 hours while it cures. Refer to the SDS for first aid details.
Step-by-Step
The surface must be structurally sound, dry, clean, and free of contaminants. Repair cracks and apply joint caulking before sealing, and mask off surrounding areas you do not want treated. New concrete needs a full 28 days of cure before it can be sealed, and substrate moisture should be below 4% for best penetration.
After washing, give the surface a full 24 hours to dry before you seal. Color Shield penetrates best into a dry substrate.
Drop a little water on the surface. If it absorbs and darkens, the surface is ready to seal. If it beads, do not apply. Beading means the surface is too dense or already sealed, and the product cannot penetrate.
Test in a few spots across the project. Porosity can vary paver to paver, and this two-minute check prevents a wasted gallon.
Stir with a drill and paddle mixer at slow speed until fully uniform. Do not dilute or thin. Check conditions before you start: the surface must be above 40F, never frozen or frost-filled, with no rain expected within 24 hours.
Work in sections of about 50 sq ft. Apply a continuous heavy flood coat to saturation with your sprayer or 3/8 inch nap roller. This is the opposite of a thin-film finish: the goal is to flood the surface so the sealer soaks deep into the substrate.
Plan coverage by substrate: roughly 150-200 sq ft per gallon on precast pavers, 100-150 on concrete drives and patios, and as low as 60-100 on porous natural stone.
On high-porosity surfaces, apply the second coat wet-on-wet immediately after the first. Do not let the first coat dry, and maintain a wet edge as you move between sections. Then the critical move: use a dry roller or lint-free rag to remove excess or puddled product before it dries.
Puddles left to dry are the number one cause of an uneven look. Walk the whole area once more before you step away.
Keep foot traffic off for 24 hours and vehicles off for 48-72 hours. Water and oil repellency develops within 24 hours, and full cure with optimum repellency takes 7-10 days. Clean tools with warm soapy water when you finish.
⏱ 24 hrs to foot trafficKeep kids and pets off the surface for the first 24 hours while it cures.
Good to Know
Test a small, inconspicuous area first. Color Shield deepens the existing natural color. It is not a stain or dye, so confirm the look before committing the whole surface.
Flood the surface to saturation. This is a penetrating sealer, not a film. Heavy, continuous coats in 50 sq ft sections let it soak in and bond.
Wipe excess before it dries. A dry roller or lint-free rag on every puddle is the difference between an even finish and blotchy spots.
Don't use it on wood. Color Shield is formulated for concrete, pavers, and masonry only. For wood furniture, Furniture Shield is our topcoat.
Don't apply if water beads on the surface. Beading means the sealer cannot penetrate. That includes stamped or polished concrete and dense stone like limestone or marble.
Don't let the first coat dry before the second. Second coats go on wet-on-wet, immediately. A dried first coat blocks the second from penetrating.
It enhances and deepens the existing natural color for a fresh, vibrant look. It is not a stain or dye. Always test a small inconspicuous area first to confirm the result.
Treated surfaces typically hold up 2-3 years before a recoat is recommended. Inspect annually, especially in freeze-thaw climates and high-traffic areas.
No. It is formulated for concrete, pavers, and masonry. For wood, use Furniture Shield, our water-based urethane topcoat. Different chemistry, different substrates, not interchangeable.
The most common cause is over-application without wiping puddles. Always use a dry roller or lint-free rag to remove excess before it dries, and test first on very porous pavers.
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